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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble place earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.